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SOCIAL LIFE, TABLES & EMBROIDERY – AT A MANOR HOUSE IN 1758

Writing tables, unpainted kitchen work surfaces, gate-legged, dining and gambling tables together with sculptured and gilded models for decoration etc. Just as today, tables were used for the most varied purposes during the 18th century. In this second study based on one of my earlier book projects – about an Inventory at a manor house in southernmost Sweden – tables will be in focus. However, worktables used for embroidery or other handicraft were not mentioned. This is unexpected...

August 18, 2017
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TEXTILE OBSERVATIONS FROM AN 1841 PLAN OF WHITBY

Maps and plans can often be valuable and informative primary sources for textile history research. This plan by Francis Pickernell over the coastal town of Whitby printed in 1841 is such an example, with its accompanying illustrative pictures. These images include, together with town buildings, the Bridge, West Pier and lighthouse, inhabitants out for a walk in their contemporary clothes and fisherfolk in both single-coloured and striped upper garments...

August 1, 2017
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PROFESSIONAL WEAVERS AND CHILD LABOUR IN MALMÖ – 1650 TO 1700

Linen weavers, stripy woollen fabrics, eiderdown filled bolsters, silver accessories for clothing, weaving of broadcloth and child labour within textile manufacturing. These are the main subjects that will be observed via historical documents and preserved items from the Malmö area in southernmost Sweden...

July 11, 2017
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THE DAILY LIFE AT A MANOR HOUSE IN 1758 – AN INTRODUCTION

In one of my earlier projects – published in 2004 – a document originating from 1758 at Christinehof manor house in southernmost Sweden provided the basis for my research. This 18th century inventory list will be presented in a total of twelve studies giving numerous examples of material culture, domestic economies, standard of living and everyday life from a perspective of a wealthy noble family...

June 25, 2017
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FASHIONS FOR THE SUMMER SEASON – ADVERTISING 1855-1914

Advertisers, photographers, shop-owners and many others took the advantage of offering their services to the coastal tourists of Whitby, many stayed for weeks and sometimes months according to the ‘List of Visitors’ featured in the local newspaper. Studies into this subject were presented in 'The Textile History of Whitby 1700-1914' – based on a multitude of primary sources giving evidence for that most drapers, tailors, dressmakers...

June 8, 2017
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18TH CENTURY HANDKERCHIEFS – THE SWEDISH EAST INDIA COMPANY TRADE

The aim with this study is to focus on a small branch of the Swedish East India Company’s dealing in fabrics used for handkerchiefs. Observations from my earlier research related to Carl Linnaeus and his “Apostles”, a hand-written Swedish account book from one of the Company’s ships and preserved pieces of cloth will give some evidence for such goods. 18th century handkerchiefs seem overall to have been an accessory that was worn out...

May 17, 2017
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COACHES & OMNIBUSES – SHOPPING ETC IN THE LONG 19TH CENTURY

Transport with coaches and omnibuses was an important way of movement for many people living at relatively short distances from a town or city as well as for holiday-makers aiming to reach coastal destinations. Reasons for travelling were varied – renewing one’s clothes or interior textiles, visiting friends, leisure trips, trading professionally or other personal needs...

May 9, 2017
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REDUCED PRICES ON TEXTILE GOODS – ADVERTISING 1855-1914

Drapers, tailors, dressmakers, milliners and other similar shop-keepers could have various reasons for offering goods to a lower price than normal. Advertisements giving evidence for this type of information to the customers were often mentioned in the terms of “reduced prices” or “special value” – whilst “sales” seldom were associated with a lowering of the price at this period according to adverts in Whitby Gazette...

April 23, 2017
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THE GREAT EXHIBITION IN 1851 – TEXTILE INFLUENCE ON A COASTAL TOWN

The Great Exhibition of 1851 displayed among many other technical inventions a considerable number of tools and machines that facilitated the preparation of every kind of textile. The Exhibition had enormous influence at the time, and probably made a major contribution to the optimism felt by the population as a whole in response to the industrial progress made in the Victorian period. During my research...

April 9, 2017
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TEXTILE FURNISHING & EMBROIDERIES – A STUDY FROM 1650 TO 1700

For several centuries Malmö and its nearby districts had benefited from a prosperous and long-lasting trade – including imports and exports of various textile goods. Circumstances that changed rapidly at the Treaty of Roskilde in 1658, when this wealthy Danish town and other closely situated areas became part of Sweden. The main trade routes were now altered, new taxes were introduced...

March 23, 2017
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NEW BOOK | BOOKBINDING BY HAND AND BOOK LAUNCH

A second post about my recently published book TEXTILIA LINNAEANA – Global 18th Century Textile Traditions & Trade, will focus on the artistic and skilled craft behind this hand-bound volume and give a brief overview of the book launch at Majgren’s Bookbindery in Copenhagen. The 520 page monograph was printed in an edition of 350 numbered copies only; including a cloth bound hard cover, coloured edges, headband and a silk bookmark...

March 10, 2017
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TEXTILE PRODUCTION & TRADITIONS IN A COASTAL TOWN – 1525-1650

Quite a large number of textiles from the period 1525-1650 are kept in the Malmö Museum collection – mostly purchased from Italy, Spain and other countries in the 20th century – but it is only a limited number that with certainty can be traced to local citizens and their everyday life from this part of the early modern period...

March 3, 2017
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SAMPLE PAGES: TEXTILIA LINNAEANA – GLOBAL 18TH CENTURY TEXTILE TRADITIONS & TRADE

The historical documentation over 520 pages is based on 10 years of textile research, emphasising the importance of a combination of theoretical and practical perspective as part of the IK Foundation's Mundus Linnæi series. The aim with this post is to present a couple of sample pages from my new monograph...

February 13, 2017
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18TH & 19TH CENTURY MARKING OF LINEN

In larger homes containing a considerable quantity of linen and underclothes that needed to be kept under control, some form of sorting system would be used to ensure that each item could be returned to its correct place after washing, mangling and ironing. Garments would be numbered, often with the owner’s initials or name added. The decorative and historical value – remembering the year one particular item was purchased, inherited or stitched...

January 19, 2017
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A STUDY OF TEXTILE TRADE – 1650s TO 1690s

The East India Company (EIC) was founded already in year 1600 and the Dutch East India Company (VOC) two years later, so long distance trade – together with national and local commerce – of desired printed cottons and silks etc was well established in western Europe in the mid-17th century. This study will give a glimpse of these cloth merchants, drapers, mercers, tailors, sellers of secondhand clothes...

January 1, 2017
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EMBROIDERIES, SILKS & VELVETS – AFTER THE REFORMATION

The Catholicism formally ended 1536 in Denmark, but St Petri church in Malmö already in the previous decade entered a period of uncertainties and financial difficulties, as a consequence the church had to sell off gold and silver included in the Medieval embroidered vestments etc. Furthermore, new acquisitions of ecclesiastical textiles...

November 23, 2016
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A STUDY OF TWO HAND-COLOURED FASHION DRAWINGS FROM 1792

The repeated regulations in 18th century Sweden to do with “sumptuousness and excess” were deciding factors in how people of different social strata were able to dress, making the choice of textile material not only dependent on each individual’s financial status. A complex set of rules were dictated, when it concerned textiles it first and foremost included various restrictions on silks, laces, voluminous types of clothes, trains on dresses etc luxury items...

November 2, 2016
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JET & DRESSED IN BLACK – THE VICTORIAN PERIOD

Mourning traditions and dressed in black have been described from several angles in my book The Textile History of Whitby 1700-1914, which will here be exemplified by two short capes kept at Whitby Museum, advertisements from the local newspaper, censuses and a photograph showing a jet workshop from the 1890s. It may be noted that the jet industry had a very long history, but it was never more prominent than around 1870...

October 12, 2016
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THE LATE 19TH-CENTURY WOOLLEN MOVEMENT & HEALTH ASPECTS

Clothes and domestic textiles were important for health and fighting illness in the Victorian era. One aspect was that it was healthy to keep warm, and in this respect woollen clothes were unbeatable. Hence the Woollen Movement introduced in the 1870s; central to this was woollen underclothes, but all kinds of woollen garments now became more popular even among the wealthy, who had previously preferred cotton and silk material...

September 27, 2016
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THE EMBROIDERERS – MEDIEVAL TEXTILES

A final post of the late Medieval textiles in St Petri church will give a brief history of the professional embroiderers’ skills, used designs and how this trade in some areas developed into surprisingly large scale production centres on the Continent, England and in the Nordic area. These complex and artistic embroideries...

September 6, 2016
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TRANSFERRING EMBROIDERY DESIGNS IN THE 18TH CENTURY

The tradition of transferring designs for free embroideries was well known in the 18th century. Professional workshops as well as domestic embroiderers had the possibility to draw the pattern freehand with chalk, charcoal or ink on the fabric, but more commonly designs were transferred onto linens, fine muslins, woollens etc with various methods from printed or hand drawn paper patterns. Inspirations for such motifs...

August 18, 2016
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EARLY PHOTOGRAPHIC PORTRAITS & VICTORIAN ADVERTISING

Whitby photographs depicting textiles and clothing can be traced back to the 1860s, but there is evidence suggesting that a photographic portrait studio was introduced already in 1848 via local advertisements in the 1856 Whitby Gazette – describing that the Mr W. Stonehouse’s business had been active ‘for a period of eight years’. This case study will briefly look in to his studio...

August 2, 2016
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18TH CENTURY SILK DYERS IN LONDON

A selection of 68 trade cards and bill-heads from 1703 to 1818 demonstrate some fascinating facts of the dyers and cleaners of London. To regard oneself as silk dyer dominated, whilst secondary titles were scarlet dyer, scourer or cleaner of various garments, dyer of cotton/calico or woollen fabrics. These randomly preserved trade cards and receipts also give some idea of preferred colours by the customers...

July 11, 2016
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MEDIEVAL TEXTILES – BIBLICAL MOTIFS & SYMBOLISM

Expensive silks and velvets used in ecclesiastical textiles were primarily valued for their embellishing qualities, whilst the role of the embroideries had double meanings. The decorative function was of great significance with the finest of stitching in silk and metallic threads, but the symbolism of the patterns is believed to have been just as important. These figure embroideries...

June 20, 2016
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FASHION & REMODELLING OF CLOTHING – A REVERSE CHRONOLOGY FROM 1914 TO 1810

The aim of this post is to give a brief text summary and a few images of female fashions, together with some thoughts about women’s possibilities or wishes to stay fashionable and to keep/alter or remodel clothing through their lives. Fashion in chronological order is seen as the most natural way to study fashion history...

June 5, 2016
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THE MISSES STANGOE – MILLINERS IN LATE VICTORIAN WHITBY

Over time between 20 to 30 women worked in the millinery trade in the last two decades of 19th century Whitby, some as employed and others as apprentices or shop-keepers. The Misses Stangoe can be traced via censuses and regular advertisements in Whitby Gazette during twelve years, where it is possible to get a glimpse of their daily working life, what types of goods they had for sale...

May 18, 2016
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ITALIAN SILKS & VELVETS – MEDIEVAL TEXTILES

Lucca, Genova, Firenze, Venezia and Milano – cities where silk weaving developed to a work of art during the Medieval period and Renaissance. These desirable textiles were sold via a myriad of trading routes through Europe and beyond. St Petri church in Malmö was one such customer, who aspired to extend its storage of vestments especially during the 15th century and up to the Reformation...

May 1, 2016
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A STUDY OF UPHOLSTERY IN 18TH & 19TH CENTURY LONDON

The rich information on trade cards and bill-heads in the form of illustrations, printed texts as well as hand-written notes may be compared with observations by the social reformer Charles Booth for historical studies of London. Together these sources give a multitude of facts linked to upholstering as an occupation...

April 17, 2016
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VICTORIAN & EDWARDIAN UMBRELLAS – A CASE STUDY

Umbrellas for protection in the rain and parasols for the sun – here I will give a few examples of the first mentioned from the small coastal town of Whitby during the Victorian and Edwardian periods. These umbrellas can be studied via advertisements in the weekly newspaper Whitby Gazette, two local photographs and preserved models...

April 1, 2016
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APPLIQUÉ & SILK BROCADES – MEDIEVAL TEXTILES

The complex appliqué technique was a usual addition for the professional embroiderers in European workshops, when decorating/illustrating the silk vestments with biblical motifs etc. This third post about the Medieval textile collection in St Petri church – aims to present a few very detailed images of these exquisite fabrics together with a brief discussion on silk brocades and how these qualities could be added with fringes, ribbons and other attributes...

March 16, 2016
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WATERPROOF GARMENTS – THE LONG NINETEENTH CENTURY

It is uncertain for how long people have been making their clothes waterproof with various kinds of wax or tarpaulin, but at least in the 1700s these methods were in common use and in the preceding century the so-called oilskins became popular – for outdoor needs, working coats and particularly for seamen’s clothing. The Mackintosh raincoat was also invented in the 1820s...

March 3, 2016
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TWO TEXTILE REMNANTS FROM THE MEDIEVAL WHITBY ABBEY

In the monograph The Textile History of Whitby 1700-1914, my brief introduction of earlier periods touched upon the long history of Whitby Abbey. This post will give some further thoughts, studied via a preserved early 14th century embroidery that once was believed to have been part of the liturgical textiles of the abbey, and a book written by Lionel Charlton in the 1770s...

February 15, 2016
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PARCELS & BOXES – “TEXTILE SHOPPING” IN THE LONG 19TH CENTURY

To find evidence for how shoppers of delicate fabrics and other textile wares carried their purchased goods home or had it delivered to their door can be established and partly speculated from various sources. A few examples will be taken from my research of advertising in the weekly Whitby Gazette from 1855 to 1914, a reconstructed draper’s shop and census returns listing errand boys and others within the textile trade...

February 4, 2016
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VESTMENTS & EMBROIDERIES – MEDIEVAL TEXTILES

In this second post of the Medieval textiles in St Petri, once part of the church’s liturgical traditions, I will discuss some comparisons with other contemporary collections and give a brief introduction to the practice and the use of the silk, velvet and linen vestments. A selection of images depicting the preserved fragments with intricate silk and gold embroideries...

January 17, 2016
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SHOP WINDOWS – THE DRAPERY TRADE IN THE LONG 19TH CENTURY

Display windows became popular in the last decades of 18th century in London giving rise to clear improvements for showing off such goods such as drapery in the most desirable way – a novelty which was also introduced in many other English cities and towns around the year 1800. This innovation was primarily due to the technical advancement of producing larger glass windows, but secondarily this also had an important role in the growth of a consumer society...

January 3, 2016
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2015 IN REVIEW – Annual Report

I am happy to announce that the views on TEXTILIS has increased by about 60% this year – from 9 800 to more than 16 000 views. Most visitors come from The United States, United Kingdom and Sweden – 121 countries in all. ”The concert hall at the Sydney Opera House holds 2,700 people. This blog was viewed about 16,000 times in 2015. If it were a concert at Sydney Opera House, it would take about 6 sold-out performances for that many people to see it„

December 30, 2015
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TEXTILE SHOPKEEPERS IN A COASTAL TOWN – A CASE STUDY

My hope is that a continuation of textile observations with connections to the coastal community of Whitby can reveal some further previously unknown historical events and details. This first case study will give a glimpse of the female shopkeepers The Misses Scott, who can be traced to a number of primary sources dating from the 1890s to 1918...

December 17, 2015
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MEDIEVAL TEXTILES IN ST PETRI CHURCH – AN INTRODUCTION

This seventh article of the Malmö area’s textile history will be the first – of several studies – describing the unique collection of vestments preserved and once used in the St Petri church. The collection includes 24 items; fragments of chasubles, copes, linen shirts, an altar piece, one dalmatic, fringes...

December 2, 2015
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HABERDASHERS – 18th & 19th CENTURY TRADE-CARDS

One of my earlier posts includes some brief research of fashion and cloth trade-cards from The British Museum Collection online, dating back to the early 18th century. Once again the aim will be to study historical events from this fascinating and very extensive collection, now based on a search for “haberdashers trade cards”...

November 18, 2015
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THE TEXTILE PRODUCTION – A MEDIEVAL TOWN

A rich selection of excavated textile tools from Malmö gives a good comprehension of textile production in the Medieval period. This in the context of local spinning, weaving or plaiting studied from spindle whorls of various materials, loom-weights and more implements...

November 3, 2015
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FRAGMENTS OF LINEN AND SILK – A MEDIEVAL TOWN

In the previous post the rich selection of finds related to wool and woollen cloth were analysed, linen and silk are not as frequent, but even so fascinating evidence of the inhabitants’ daily lives are presented. In this context I will discuss the trade with linen, the town’s linen weavers, imported silks, an unearthed cod piece and a ribbon of silk...

October 18, 2015
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A MEDIEVAL TOWN – DOMESTIC & IMPORTED WOOLLEN CLOTH

This fourth article of the Malmö area’s textile trades and material culture is the first of several posts which will describe the new circumstances for the coastal Medieval town. Various trades had by now been of importance for a long time, but the growing population gave it new dimensions. For textiles and clothing...

October 4, 2015
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THE LATER NORDIC IRON & VIKING AGE – TEXTILE TRADITIONS

This third article of textile trade and material culture of the Malmö area, will discuss the development through the later part of the Iron Age and the more complex novelties in luxury materials added to accessories and garments during the Viking Age...

September 17, 2015
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THE NORDIC IRON AGE – CLOTHING AND DYES

The approximate first thousand years of the Nordic Iron Age (500BC-600AD) was a period when textile related finds first decreased then increased in the Malmö area... introduction of dyeing from the knowledge learned via local excavations and comparisons with some extremely well-preserved Danish bog finds.

August 27, 2015
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NORDIC BRONZE AGE TRADITIONS – A TEXTILE STUDY

...This first part introducing the Stone Age period and continuing into the Nordic Bronze Age (1800 to 500BC) – a time when skin garments went through refinement simultaneously with the early development of woven woollen fabrics and plaiting techniques...

August 7, 2015
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HISTORICAL REPRODUCTIONS – 19TH CENTURY WHITEWORK EMBROIDERY

The long history of whitework embroidery has always fascinated me – how by using the same white linen or cotton sewing-thread in a natural way it developed from the actual sewing of garments and household linen to additionally adorn collars, linings, pillow-cases and all sorts of edgings on fabric...

July 14, 2015
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THE HISTORY OF A LINEN TABLECLOTH – DATED 1789

To own a substantial number of unbleached or white linen tablecloths in a Swedish nobility home, was a tradition with its roots in Medieval times. This group of interior textiles also represented an important part of the family linen storage and as a valuable heirloom – a practice continuing for several hundreds of years...

June 11, 2015
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HISTORICAL REPRODUCTIONS – 18TH & 19TH CENTURY DOVE-TAIL TAPESTRY

The dove-tail tapestry technique is known in Swedish as flamskväv or ‘Flemish weave’. Similar tapestry weaving can be seen on textiles that are thousands of years old, from many different parts of the world: for instance, as decorations on clothing and later as wall decorations...

May 22, 2015
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HISTORICAL REPRODUCTIONS – A SWEDISH WEAVING TRADITION

Brocaded tabby type “krabbasnår” was just one of several decorative weaving techniques made by the farmer’s wives in southernmost Sweden during the 18th and 19th centuries. The technique in itself is fairly uncomplicated, but the brocading weft pattern picked by hand alternating with the shuttled ...

May 1, 2015
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CONTENTS & INDEX with more than 3000 search words – THE TEXTILE HISTORY OF WHITBY 1700-1914

A comprehensive index with more than 3000 search words forms a vital part of this forthcoming monograph. This post shows the contents and full index. Including sail weaving & sailmaking, the drapery trade, economic & social history aspects, Victorian studies...

April 12, 2015
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SAMPLE PAGES – THE TEXTILE HISTORY OF WHITBY 1700-1914

The aim with this post is to present a couple of sample pages from my forthcoming monograph – including sailcloth weaving, dressmaking, material culture, knitting, laundry, dyeing of cloth and much more. This interdisciplinary study has also closely looked into manufacturing & trading, advertisements, port history...

April 1, 2015
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THE FUR TRADE IN THE NORTH AMERICAN COLONIES –OBSERVATIONS OF A MID-18TH CENTURY TRAVELLER

This sixth article from North America will focus on the Finnish/Swedish naturalist Pehr Kalm’s studies of the fur trade throughout his stay and travels in the colonies from 1748 to 1751, together with a brief discussion...

March 1, 2015
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STUDY OF TWO EXQUISITE VICTORIAN FANS

The Whitby Museum Costume Collection contains a rich selection of Victorian and Edwardian fans... This “Textile Thought” aims to display some close-up images of two fans – one still in its original case – and a brief history of the usefulness and vogue for such luxury items.

February 11, 2015
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NATURAL & EARLY SYNTHETIC TEXTILE DYES – A STUDY IN PHILADELPHIA

The fifth observation from North America has been inspired from my visit last summer at the most interesting Chemical Heritage Foundation in Philadelphia. The aim with this article is to give some comparable views of dyeing methods,...

January 25, 2015
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HISTORICAL REPRODUCTIONS – LOCAL SWEDISH EMBROIDERIES

Many areas in Sweden developed their own specialised embroidery designs in various combinations depending on material, stitching, colours and practical uses in the 18th- and 19th centuries. Three of these local county embroidery...

January 6, 2015
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TEXTILIS 2014 IN REVIEW – Thank You for Visiting!

The concert hall at the Sydney Opera House holds 2,700 people. TEXTILIS was viewed about 9,800 times in 2014. If it were a concert at Sydney Opera House, it would take about 4 sold-out performances for that many people to see it. SEASON'S GREETINGS FROM TEXTILIS / Yours, Viveka

December 30, 2014
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COTTON AND OTHER TEXTILE MATERIALS – IN THOREAU’S CONCORD

A visit to the Concord Museum in New England, formed the inspiration for this “Textile Thought” – a well-presented and most interesting collection situated in lovely surroundings in the outskirts of Concord. A town first and foremost associated with its literary citizens R W Emerson, H D Thoreau ...

December 8, 2014
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HISTORICAL REPRODUCTIONS – “TVISTSÖM” EMBROIDERY

To decorate domestic as well as ecclesiastical textiles with tvistsöm or the quite similar cross stitch technique, have at least traditions back to the 13th century in Europe. In southernmost Sweden this way of embroidering became ...

November 28, 2014
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TEXTILE OBSERVATIONS – THE CORRESPONDENCE OF ABIGAIL & JOHN ADAMS

This third observation from North America will give a glimpse of textiles and clothing discussed by John Adams (1735-1826) and Abigail Smith Adams (1744-1818) in their correspondence from 1762 to 1801. The preserved collection of the couple’s private letters ...

November 11, 2014
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TAPE LOOM WEAVING AND ITS TRADITIONS IN THE NORTH AMERICAN COLONIES

This second observation from North America includes a portrait from 1773, a box tape loom dated 1794, weaving from Philadelphia in July 2014 and some examples of its European textile heritage ...

October 20, 2014
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THE TEXTILE HISTORY OF WHITBY 1700-1914 …

My forthcoming monograph “THE TEXTILE HISTORY OF WHITBY 1700-1914 – A Lively Coastal Town between the North Sea and North York Moors”, is in progress to be published and Subscribers are welcome ...

October 8, 2014
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HISTORICAL REPRODUCTIONS – WOOLLEN EMBROIDERY

Early 19th century woollen embroidery from southernmost Sweden was my second attempt in reproducing historical stitching. These well-crafted embroideries with their rich...

September 25, 2014
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UNEXPECTED HISTORICAL TEXTILES & TRADITIONS IN NORTH AMERICA

During this year I have had the opportunity within my work at The IK Foundation’s fieldwork “The Bridge Builder Expedition – North America” to take part in a journey covering the province of Quebec in Canada and the U.S. states Pennsylvania, New York, Massachusetts ...

September 6, 2014
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STUDY OF AN 1870s WOOLLEN DOLMAN

This woollen dolman originating from the 1870s is an example, demonstrating a practical use for the up-to-date fashion of the time together with great skill in design, hand stitching and machine worked features.

August 22, 2014
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HISTORICAL REPRODUCTIONS OF EMBROIDERY – BLACKWORK OR “SVARTSTICK”

This first observation is looking closer into the very fine embroidery of the old technique blackwork – called “svartstick” in the province of Dalarna. One of many fascinating styles of embroideries...

August 3, 2014
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WHITBY AS A SEASIDE RESORT IN THE EDWARDIAN PERIOD

Whitby had been a popular seaside destination for many years in the early 20th century; assisted by advertisements in the local paper from the mid 1850s where drapers, dressmakers, milliners and haberdashers tried...

June 20, 2014
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A SELECTION OF EARLY FASHION & CLOTH TRADE-CARDS

The British Museum Collection online includes a unique selection of trade-cards donated 1818 by Dorothea Banks, dating back to the early 18th century. Parts of this material is of key interest from a textile history point ...

May 29, 2014
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TEXTILES IN 18TH- & 19TH CENTURY ESTATE INVENTORIES

Textiles woven in double interlocked tapestry are some of the many household items mentioned in southern Swedish estate inventories during the period from 1700 to 1850. These records are important complementary sources ...

May 14, 2014
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QUEEN VICTORIA & EDWARD VII – COMMEMORATIVE PRINTED TEXTILES

A unique collection of nine commemorative tray cloths, handkerchiefs, towels and scarfs printed on cotton or silk between 1863 and 1909 are included in the Social History Collection at Whitby Museum...

May 2, 2014
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UNIQUE 19TH CENTURY OBSERVATIONS OF TEXTILES AND CLOTHING

The life and manners of the Swedish people – including clothing and decorative textiles – were two of many areas interesting the artist and folklore researcher Nils Månsson Mandelgren (1813-1899)...

April 22, 2014
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SILK BROCADE DRESS – EARLY 1870s

Proficiency in making a complete dress, or a skirt and its related bodice, required a trained hand with an understanding of the many factors essential in creating a well-fitting garment. Correct measurements, and if possible multiple fittings during the sewing of the...

April 2, 2014
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IKAT – EXHIBITION DISPLAYING TEXTILES FROM UZBEKISTAN

Ikat dyeing and weaving with the finest of silk thread have traditions continuing far back in time in Uzbekistan, among other places from the regions of Bukhara and Samarkand. From the exhibition at the David Collection...

March 13, 2014
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LONDON WOOL MARKET – WHITBY GAZETTE IN 1860

The importance of the London & British Wool Market during the Victorian age is a fascinating and far-reaching subject, which is only briefly included in the research of the Whitby Gazette for my ongoing textile project. The aims with this “Textile Thought” are to share...

March 1, 2014
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DOUBLE INTERLOCKED TAPESTRIES IN WORKS OF ART

Long-lasting traditions, the usefulness of the textiles and creations of large dowries were the three most important factors in the increasing production of “rölakan” or double interlocked tapestries – as with many other woven techniques and embroideries...

February 14, 2014
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DRESS IN CHECKED SILK FABRIC – LATE 1840s

Every detail of this late 1840s garment has been sewn by hand and much of the work would unquestionably require an experienced dressmaker, especially the link between skirt and bodice with its many complicated features, as is also the case with the bodice in general...

February 1, 2014
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PEHR KALM’S TEXTILE OBSERVATIONS IN LONDON AND SURROUNDING COUNTIES 1748

His observations foremost included: trade with textiles, natural dyeing of yarn and fabric, textile materials, spinning and weaving, textiles for interior use and bed linen, fashion and personal travel clothes...

January 17, 2014
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NATURAL DYEING – JOHN GERARD’S HERBAL of 1597 (1633)

During my research of textile dyeing for the ongoing project “TEXTILIA LINNAEANA”, I came across a most interesting volume. It was a rare Herbal including numerous plants possible to use for natural dyeing and on a few occasions the accompaning texts...

January 3, 2014
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THE FEMALE WEAVERS

Female weavers who produced double interlocked tapestries or “rölakan” as a professional occupation were extremely rare during the 18th and 19th centuries, which also was confirmed during my documentation between 1984-91 including more than 1.600 examples of these tapestries...

December 19, 2013
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GATHERING AND BELL-SHAPED SLEEVES

An example of how tight gatherings were prepared and sewn together with coarse linen thread in this hand-sewn silk dress from the mid to late 1850s. In general, drawing together considerable width in tight pleats of this kind especially in the back half of the skirt had long been a custom in England...

December 6, 2013
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THE WEAVERS AND THEIR FAMILIES

A complex interaction of longlived traditions in combination with economical, social and geographical circumstances gave rise to the rich variety of woven and embroidered textiles from farmer’s homes in the southernmost Sweden (Skåne) during the period 1700...

November 22, 2013
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FORGOTTEN VICTORIAN TEXTILE OBSERVATIONS

Follow the young Swedish traveller, J P Bager, as he walks through the streets of København and Hamburg en route for London. He also visited Birmingham, Manchester, Liverpool, Leeds and Hull during his journey in the late summer of 1840...

November 7, 2013
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VICTORIAN FASHION

The comprehensive Whitby collection related to clothing is unique in many ways for a small town, especially with its important collection of some 250 dresses, dating from the Victorian and Edwardian periods and up to the First World War (1837-1914)...

October 14, 2013
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THE IMPORTANCE OF THE DETAILS – OWNERSHIP

To place one’s mark or initials on possessions or produced goods, is a tradition which stretches back through Nordic heritage. Noticed as early as Viking Age, from which artifacts can be seen to house such markings...

September 28, 2013
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ALUM AND TEXTILE DYEING

Alum was of universal importance for textile dyeing before the introduction of chemical dyes in the 1850s. Thanks to my two textile history projects which are currently in progress, I have had the possibility to study the significance of the alum quarrying and trade...

September 12, 2013
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THE IMPORTANCE OF THE DETAILS – COLOURS

During the period 1700-1850 all colours of the spectrum were produced from natural dyes. Primarily from plants but also in some aspects from various lice...

August 24, 2013
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THE IMPORTANCE OF THE DETAILS – MATERIALS

The double interlocked tapestries or “rölakan” – together with many other textiles – only begins to reach its beauty, strength and usability, when the details of preparation, weaving and post production all come together...

August 13, 2013
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ANDERS SPARRMAN’S OBSERVATIONS OF TAPA CLOTH

Sample books including tapa cloth, originating from the three circumnavigations of Captain James Cook – 1768 to 1779 – are today spread around the world...

July 7, 2013
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LIONS, STARS AND POMEGRANATES FROM SOUTHERN SWEDEN

Southernmost Sweden had an unusually rich textile tradition which within the farmers’ households reached its peak between 1750 to 1850. My first research project on a larger scale was based on these historically...

June 13, 2013
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TEXTILIA LINNAEANA – Global 18th Century Textile Traditions & Trade

The project “TEXTILIA LINNAEANA – Global 18th-century Textile Traditions & Trade” has in several parts been worked together with the international research and publishing project “The Linnaeus Apostles – Global Science & Adventure”...

June 1, 2013
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@TEXTILISNET ON TWITTER

Welcome to follow TEXTILIS Viveka Hansen's Textile Thoughts on TWITTER.

May 30, 2013
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LAUNDRY AND DYEING – 1850s to 1914

Washing, starching, ironing, repairing, altering and dyeing were important processes not only for keeping clothes clean but also to ensure that they continued to be wearable and remained fresh as long as possible. Fabric, the sewing of clothes, and ready-made garments were relatively expensive investments...

May 26, 2013
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KAITAG – TEXTILE ART FROM DAGHESTAN

During April 1994, I had the pleasure to work as curator for this unique collection of embroidery from the Kaitag people in Daghestan exhibited at Christinehof in Skåne, Sweden. The unusual patterns embossed with beautiful colour combinations fascinated more than 5,000 textile interested...

May 26, 2013
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BIO

On this site “T E X T I L I S  – Viveka Hansen’s Textile Thoughts” I would like to…

March 30, 2013