[No: XII | December 6, 2013 | By Viveka Hansen]
This is the first short essay concentrating on the skilled dressmaking on one single 1850s Victorian dress from the Whitby Museum Costume Collection. Demonstrating that sleeves getting wider to reach their greatest extent about 1857-58, skirt very wide and held by a gathering; heavy brocade-woven silk, preferably decorated with fringes and ribbons; costumes often three-piece with a fringed triangular shawl. A growing trend away from the horsehair crinolines that increased the breadth of the skirt, in favour of the new crinoline frames that considerably increased the skirt’s extent all round.My research methods and aims have mostly concentrated on such questions as choice of cloth, handicraft skill and details of stitching and tailoring comparison home-sewing, clothing for various purposes, the importance of accessories, sewing by hand or machine and rather less on the vagaries of fashion during various periods. Naturally the influence of fashion must be considered since changes in 19th century women’s clothing were often so strongly marked. But many garments cannot be accurately defined in terms of basic fashion terminology unless taking into account the influence of tradition, a woman’s age, the delay before new trends reached small towns, and aspects of religion, economic conditions and the many unwritten social rules that affected every woman’s attitude to what she decided to wear.
– Hansen, Viveka, ‘The Textile History of Whitby 1700-1914’, (Extracts from Chapter 5 & research material for the forthcoming book). PUBLISHED JUNE 15TH, 2015.
PLEASE REFERENCE AS FOLLOWS:
– Hansen, Viveka, ‘Gathering and Bell-shaped Sleeves’, TEXTILIS (December 6, 2013); http://textilis.net/ (Accessed: Day/Month/Year)