[My Chamber of Textile Thoughts. No: XXVII | By Viveka Hansen]
The research material for my publication The Textile History of Whitby 1700-1914, includes numerous observations of Victorian clothing which I have started to introduce a selection of in some earlier “Textile Thoughts”. Primary aims with these short texts are to focus on one or two preserved garments containing some particularly interesting details – discussed and displayed in close-up images. This woollen dolman originating from the 1870s is such an example, demonstrating a practical use for the up-to-date fashion of the time together with great skill in design, hand stitching and machine worked features.
This variety of outerwear was known as a dolman, or a so-called half cape designed to rest on the bustle and often made from weighty and expensive material. Capes/mantles of this type sometimes also had added fur details, though none is included in the Whitby collection. The dolman for the Western tailored wardrobe also often displays Eastern inspiration in shaping and design, fringed borders, embellishing braiding, embroidery details and tassels – which are clearly visible characteristics for both the discussed grey woollen dolman and the accompanying fashion illustration dated 1871.To be continued…
[Research material and extract (Chapter 5) from the forthcoming book ‘The Textile History of Whitby 1700-1914’, see “NEWS” (the book will include a complete list of notes).] PUBLISHED JUNE 15TH, 2015.
PLEASE REFERENCE AS FOLLOWS:
- Hansen, Viveka, ‘Study of an 1870s Woollen Dolman’, TEXTILIS (August 22, 2014); http://textilis.net/ (Accessed: Day/Month/Year)