[No: XXXVIII | By Viveka Hansen]

The aim with this post is to present a couple of sample pages from my forthcoming monograph – including sailcloth weaving, dressmaking, material culture, knitting, laundry, dyeing of cloth and much more. This interdisciplinary study has also closely looked into manufacturing & trading, advertisements, port history, the importance of apprenticeships and the altogether far-reaching aspects of textiles’ social implications in society. Even if the foundation for this book is based on a local perspective, national comparisons as well as the long-lasting overseas trade for a coastal town like Whitby is discussed from a multitude of angles in various chapters of the book. The historical documentation is based on 8 years of textile research, emphasising the importance of a combination of theoretical and practical perspectives – demonstrating the overall significance of textiles for people’s daily life for more than 200 years.

The section ‘Sail-weaving, Weavers and Sailcloth Manufacturers’ in Chapter IV covers the pages 153-163 and is based on parish church registers and a large number of other 18th and 19th century historical documents, tools etc. Photo: The IK Foundation, London (pp. 160-161, ©Viveka Hansen).

The section ‘Sail-weaving, Weavers and Sailcloth Manufacturers’ in Chapter IV covers the pages 153-163 and is based on parish church registers and a large number of other 18th and 19th century historical documents, tools etc. Photo: The IK Foundation, London (pp. 160-161).

The First chapter of the book, introduces the ‘The Textile Development of Whitby’ (pp. 8-49) and this chapter briefly also discusses the pre-1700 period over nine pages to give a foundation for the historical development of the Whitby area. Sample pages (8-9, ©Viveka Hansen).

The First chapter of the book, introduces the ‘The Textile Development of Whitby’ (pp. 8-49) and this chapter briefly also discusses the pre-1700 period over nine pages to give a foundation for the historical development of the Whitby area. Sample pages (8-9).

These pages is part of the section describing ‘The Selling of Textiles – from Market to Department Store’ in the book’s first chapter. Sample pages (42-43, ©Viveka Hansen).

These pages is part of the section describing ‘The Selling of Textiles – from Market to Department Store’ in the book’s first chapter. Sample pages (42-43).

The second chapter ‘Textile Occupations and Trades from 1700 to 1914’ (pp 50-95) primarily places Whitby in a national context with textile occupations and trades seen from a wider perspective. Additionally the everyday life of the textile workers, the significant apprentice period etc are discussed from a social history point of view. Sample pages (50-51, ©Viveka Hansen).

The second chapter ‘Textile Occupations and Trades from 1700 to 1914’ (pp 50-95) primarily places Whitby in a national context with textile occupations and trades seen from a wider perspective. Additionally the everyday life of the textile workers, the significant apprentice period etc are discussed from a social history point of view. Sample pages (50-51).

The section ‘Textile Observations on board Whitby Ships’ is documented over eleven pages and is researched from a wide range of primary sources; these texts are part of Chapter IV (pp. 142-181), which covers the multi-facetted history of Whitby’s sailcloth manufacturing and sailmaking traditions. Sample pages (178-179, ©Viveka Hansen).

The section ‘Textile Observations on board Whitby Ships’ is documented over eleven pages and is researched from a wide range of primary sources; these texts are part of Chapter IV (pp. 142-181), which covers the multi-facetted history of Whitby’s sailcloth manufacturing and sailmaking traditions. Sample pages (178-179).

The monograph includes an extensive Plate Collection with 127 coloured illustrations, many of these make reference to the longest chapter of the book – Chapter V (pp. 182-271) which describes a wide range of historical written sources as well as preserved garments. This part of the book is based on clothes, fashion, shopping and the preserved collection of Victorian and Edwardian clothing at Whitby Museum. Additionally extensive studies have been made from parish church registers, censuses, a poor law valuation and many other historical documents. Some of these hand written/printed sources registered the individuals occupied in dominantly female occupations like dressmakers, seamstresses, laundresses etc and even more documents referred to male tailors, drapers and their many assistants. This is just to mention some details of the myriad of local and national trading in Whitby as well as overseas’ imports of fabrics or selling/buying of cloth/clothes in Whitby to the local population and visitors alike from 1700 to 1914. Sample pages (352-353, ©Viveka Hansen).

The monograph includes an extensive Plate Collection with 127 coloured illustrations, many of these make reference to the longest chapter of the book – Chapter V (pp. 182-271) which describes a wide range of historical written sources as well as preserved garments. This part of the book is based on clothes, fashion, shopping and the preserved collection of Victorian and Edwardian clothing at Whitby Museum. Additionally extensive studies have been made from parish church registers, censuses, a poor law valuation and many other historical documents. Some of these hand written/printed sources registered the individuals occupied in dominantly female occupations like dressmakers, seamstresses, laundresses etc and even more documents referred to male tailors, drapers and their many assistants. This is just to mention some details of the myriad of local and national trading in Whitby as well as overseas’ imports of fabrics or selling/buying of cloth/clothes in Whitby to the local population and visitors alike from 1700 to 1914. Sample pages (352-353).

A second example from the Plate Collection, with a close-up study of fabric, calico printing, lace and embroidery. Sample pages (358-359, ©Viveka Hansen).

A second example from the Plate Collection, with a close-up study of fabric, calico printing, lace and embroidery. Sample pages (358-359).

A few words about the other chapters not mentioned in the sample pages:

  • Chapter III – ‘Advertising of Clothes and Textile Materials in the Whitby Gazette’ (pp. 96-141) includes a wide range of textile studies from advertisements, announcement and the like of the local weekly newspaper Whitby Gazette from 1855 to 1914.
  • Chapter VI – includes knitting traditions, the local ganseys, the photographer Frank Meadow Sutcliffe’s documentation of the fishing community, other knitted garments and tools for knitting (pp. 272-285).
  • Chapter VII – ‘Dyeing, Washing and Mangling’ (pp. 286-309) comprise these subjects from a wide range of written/printed primary sources, textile tools and early photographs. Additionally the importance of the alum industry for natural dyeing is included here and likewise a special social history study based on laundry occupations via censuses from 1841 to 1911.
  • Chapter VIII – ‘Samplers and other Embroideries’ (pp. 310-327) is based upon a large collection of samplers in the Whitby Museum together with a rich spectrum of other embroideries, tools, educational sewing, trading/shops and the professional workers involved with embroidery in Whitby.
  • Chapter IX – ‘Textile Recycling and Economy’ (pp. 328-337) is reflecting over the important local rag trade and its health issues, followed by studies of handwritten documents and printed sources, tools and items related to rag rugs, quilts, mending of clothes etc.

Additionally:

  • Three Appendixes (pp. 386-404) are included, based on the three most inclusive sources from my research of “people involved in textile occupations”. 1. The Whitby parish church register from 1676 to 1837. 2. Censuses from 1841 to 1911. 3. Advertisements in Whitby Gazette from 1855 to 1914.
  • Notes, Bibliography & List of Illustrations.
  • The volume is concluded with an extensive Index; divided into a main, persons and geographical index.

——— ik home page

  • PRE-ORDERS with free shipping for a limited time. In order to take advantage of the pre-order discount including free shipping (value minimum £25.00) and secure your numbered copy; your order and payment must have been received on or before June 15th, 2015.
  • This is a not-for-profit project/publication. Please order a copy of the volume or recommend my monograph to your librarian, colleagues and friends.

Source: Sample pages (©Viveka Hansen) from the forthcoming book ‘The Textile History of Whitby 1700-1914 – A lively coastal town between the North Sea and North York Moors’, see “NEWS”. [PUBLISHED JUNE 15TH, 2015.]

PLEASE REFERENCE AS FOLLOWS:

Hansen, Viveka, ‘Sample Pages – The Textile History of Whitby 1700-1914′, TEXTILIS (April 1, 2014); http://textilis.net/ (Accessed: Day/Month/Year)